Morgan Steyn was promoted to winemaker at De Grendel earlier this year, where he has been under the wing of famed cellar master Charles Hopkins since 2019. He’s not only making a name for himself, but also helping to raise the profile of the Durbanville Wine Valley itself.
Morgan grew up in the Garden Route, in Riversdal, and graduated from Oakdale agricultural school with a bursary from what is now the Department of Agriculture, Land Reform and Rural Development (DALRRD). “I learned to love agriculture and nature and became interested in the processes happening in the background,” he says.
Morgan Steyn, winemaker at De Grendel
A brief history
Morgan’s studies at Stellenbosch University was somewhat of a culture shock. He lacked the same exposure to the wine industry that most of his peers took for granted. Instead, he immersed himself in chemistry and mathematics and developed his own passion for wine in more academic terms.
This all changed during his final year when he gained practical experience as an intern at Groot Constantia, under Boela Gerber. Theory gave way to more concrete understanding. “Back in class, everything was easy now that I’d seen the practical application and understood the reasons behind everything I’d learned.”
In 2016 Morgan entered the Cape Winemakers Guild’s protégé programme, where he spent the first year with CWG veteran and winemaker Louis Strydom at Ernie Els Wines and the second with winemaker Morné Vrey at Delaire Graff. A harvest with Domaine Lejeune in Burgundy followed in 2018, and in 2019 he joined De Grendel as intern. “It could talk all day about how much I’ve learned here.”
De Grendel
Morgan was soon appointed as assistant winemaker, a role he fulfilled until January this year when De Grendel promoted him to winemaker this year. “My first official harvest was interesting, without too many surprises,” he says. “Everything came in when it should. The analyses were all beautiful, showing all the right sugars and acidity.”
The 2023 harvest was therefore a little smaller than expected. A small percentage of grapes, such as Chardonnay, were hit by heavy rains this season. “We adapted well. It was a good season to be in the driving seat. It afforded me an opportunity to think about how certain choices would affect the harvest and how I can improve next time.”
De Grendel is expanding, and has increased its cellar capacity by 100 tonnes last year. The cellar receives about 30% of its grapes from other regions including Ceres, Paarl and Stellenbosch. Consistent vineyard practices and low disease pressure have also contributed to growth in volumes and quality.
The right stuff
Although Morgan has been Charles’ right hand in the cellar for three years, the assistant duties usually fall on an intern. Charles is passionate about education, and as a beneficiary of that vast knowledge and experience, Morgan has taken the lesson to heart. “Charles takes a CWG protégé every year, and Charles taught me the importance of giving back to the industry and teaching young people what you know – what to do and how to do it. We can’t take that knowledge for granted.”
Morgan is one of a new wave of young winemakers making their mark in the Durbanville Wine Valley. “Since 2019 we’ve being doing a lot more together, for instance with monthly tastings where we discuss and compare wines from different regions. Natasha [De Villiers, Durbanville Wine Valley route manager] has also been working hard to foster cohesion and promote the valley.”
Not just Sauvignon Blanc
Perhaps the most well-known outcome of this collaboration was the Durbanville Sauvignon Blanc, a complex project to produce a combined Sauvignon Blanc from each of 13 Durbanville wineries involved. It’s a true expression of the vineyards and people of the region, and Morgan oversaw this year’s release.
Each winery contributes a completed component for the wine, picked from the best batches from their best blocks and supplied with full chemical analysis. “We then taste the 13 components together and tweak the contributions. For instance, I might ask for a higher alcohol of one component and some more of another. Fortunately everyone has always provided the best quality we could hope for each year. I then create a homogenous blend before shipping the wines to De Grendel’s cellar on a predetermined date for fining and stabilisation. It’s tasted again and bottled.”
The blend summarises 13 different stories from 13 different terroirs and 13 different styles of winemaking, Morgan explains. “Each one of them will tell their own story about the process, but the result is a true signature of the valley.”
The last vintage sold out, and the revenue gets ploughed back into the valley and helps further promotions. It’s also a great conversation piece for inviting curious consumers to explore everything else the region offers. “Our Merlot, Shiraz and cool-climate Pinotage are all doing well, and the Cabs have also won awards.”
Successfully pulling off such an ambitious project, with all the variables and logistics involved, is quite a feat, but Morgan makes it sound easy. He attributes this to everyone doing their part, not to mention the mentorship of legends such as Charles Hopkins and the late Martin Moore. “Sauvignon Blanc is the one variety we all produce. It’s an excellent example not only of our terroir but also of the camaraderie.”
Innovation
Morgan is sure Chenin Blanc would do also well here, but strategic market and commercial considerations will determine the way forward. Pinotage, Sémillon and Chardonnay are viable possibilities. “We’re taking good care of our Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah that were planted in Ceres to take advantage of the climate.”
Morgan also experiments with amphoras, different wood regimes, spontaneous fermentation and skin fermentation. De Grendel even has a few blocks of certified organic grapes to understand the process and see what works. “We keep doing new things to stay on the cutting edge. Consumer trends and palates are always changing as people are exposed to more wines. You have to keep fine-tuning what you have to be ready for the future.”
