Hogan Wines started as a small, family-run business, with Jocelyn Hogan Wilson as winemaker. Initially producing just one white and one red wine, the portfolio soon expanded as Jocelyn’s curiosity led her to explore new cultivars.
Jocelyn Hogan Wilson has been making wine for over 20 years. She completed her first harvest at Steenberg Farm in 2004, when she was a fourth-year university student. She also travelled to Margaret River, Australia, to gain international harvest experience. Back in South Africa, she secured her first job in 2006 as an assistant winemaker with the talented Bruce Jack at Flagstone Wines. It didn’t take long for her talent to shine through, and by the following year, she’d stepped into the role of head winemaker and general manager at La Bri, where she worked until 2010.
After pouring all her energy into her career, Jocelyn felt the call of motherhood. She took a sabbatical to focus on family life and welcomed her second child. For three wonderful years she devoted herself to her kids, but the allure of winemaking was hard to resist.
Through her experiences, she encountered two distinct approaches in the wine business: buying grapes versus farming her own, and the choice between sticking with a single vineyard site or enjoying the freedom of multiple sites. Jocelyn loved the idea of being able to explore and experiment with various locations. She realised that to achieve a balance between her career and family, she needed flexitime to pursue her passion. This is where her dad, Dunstan, stepped in. “He gave me the confidence and financial backing to get back on my feet,” she says.
Hogan Wines was launched in 2014, beginning with just two tons of grapes produced in a cellar in the Franschhoek Valley. “The initial goal was simply to create one white and one red wine, and focus entirely on those two,” Jocelyn says. But being curious by nature, she couldn’t resist the yearning to explore and experiment. Six wines and 12 vintages later, she now proudly offers a selection that includes a Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, red blend, a flor wine, Cabernet Franc and Carignan.
From vine to wine
Each bottle of wine contains the unique story of its vintage. Take the Galvanised Chardonnay 2022, for instance. The quote by Friedrich Nietzsche, “You must have chaos within you to give birth to a dancing star,” perfectly reflects the spirit in which it was crafted. Jocelyn believes wine should be a history lesson based on what the vine has experienced over the years, whether good or bad. “No year is ever the same,” she says. That’s why her wines are never identical from one vintage to the next. “We don’t want to make wine according to a recipe,” she says. “We want to make natural, site-specific, vintage-driven wines.”
She’s selected vineyards suited in terms of climate and soil to the varietals she makes. “We’ve looked for older vines that tell the vintage’s story through their well-established root systems, gnarled trunks and lower yields,” she says. The grapes are sourced mainly from the Swartland, Wellington, Helderberg and Stellenbosch.
When asked to name a special vineyard, she immediately thinks of the Carignan vineyard at Welgegund in Wellington, describing it as her “wild child”. This 21-year-old vineyard was the source of the varietal first used in her Divergent Red blend, which features exotic spice, black morello cherries and tart notes. In 2023, she bottled her first single varietal Carignan from this vineyard.
Initially, Jocelyn had no plans to work with Carignan until a family friend, Alex Camerer, the late owner of Welgegund, introduced her to the varietal. “He was always absolutely passionate about Carignan,” she says. During their time together, they shared wonderful lunches with her in-laws and often sat on one side of the table to discuss wine, particularly Carignan. “He persuaded me to give this varietal a try,” she says.
The Divergent Red blend was inspired by a wine from Lebanon called Chateau Musar. Initially, Jocelyn intended for her blend to consist of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cinsaut. However, after attending a tasting hosted by owner Serge Hochar of Chateau Musar, she learned about the story of Chateau Musar, which features a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsaut and, importantly, Carignan. This revelation captivated Jocelyn, and she realised why Alex had for years been saying she should consider experimenting with Carignan.
Finally appreciating how the varietal enhanced the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cinsaut blend, she acquired some Carignan grapes for her own wine from Welgegund. “I always think of Alex when I’m working with this wine and how he guided me in discovering this varietal,” she says.
Jocelyn maintains a close relationship with all her producers. “I will always include them in the conversation about my intentions for their grapes,” she says. Through these relationships, she seeks to gain an understanding of the nuances of each vineyard, which is pivotal to making good wine.
To add a personal touch to her brand, she includes a quote that perfectly captures the story behind each bottle, along with catchy lyrics from her favourite songs that played in the cellar while they were making the wine. She’s got a soft spot for The Chemical Brothers and Red Hot Chili Peppers. As for the label colour, she chooses shades that spark specific feelings about the vintage or remind her of memorable moments while crafting the wine.
The wines cost from R305 to R475 a bottle. Half of her wines are exported, with the UK being the strongest market. She also has a loyal following in Japan and selected countries in Europe. Locally, her wines are sold in many restaurants.
The role of family
Jocelyn, her husband Nicholas, and their two kids live on Dwarsriviershoek Farm in the Banhoek Valley. Nicholas focuses on cultivating proteas, plums, pears and apples, and Jocelyn says she never stops appreciating how amazing it is to have a partner who’s always ready to lend a hand with the farming logistics.
Dunstan, who previously worked in the fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) sector, helps her navigate the business ins and outs of Hogan Wines.
Life can get hectic as a one-person band, but Jocelyn has learnt how to roll with the punches. “It’s crucial to recognise my limits, especially as I started this brand to create a bit more freedom to spend time with my kids,” she says. She loves teaching them about the wine world and taking them along to the vineyards.
Stylistically, Jocelyn has hit her sweet spot in winemaking and doesn’t plan to deviate from it. However, she remains open to adapting to climate change and market trends. For now, she’s soaking up every moment on the farm and doing what she does best – making fine wine and creating memories.
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