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A life poured into wine

Melanie Paltoglou’s journey as a chef began in what she and her sister Vanessa fondly called their “cakey place,” where they spent countless sunny days icing mud cakes with clay pigments. “Eventually, we graduated to making fish and chips,” Melanie laughs.

Their love for food and wine naturally followed from a childhood spent helping their father, Clive, make wine in an old tub. They carefully barrelled the wine, only to be disappointed when they discovered it had been mysteriously consumed and watered down by someone. The sisters took comfort in cooking homemade pasta, fragrant Indian curries, and Chinese cook-offs accompanied by music and wine.

Melanie attended school in Johannesburg and initially pursued a career in nursing and midwifery, far removed from the culinary world. She later moved to Cape Town to complete her midwifery training at Mowbray Maternity Hospital. At the time, Observatory was a vibrant hub, alive with eclectic restaurants, pubs, and a vibrant music and wine scene.

It was here where the sisters launched their first business: a small restaurant that quickly became a local favourite. Seven years later, they sold the business, and Melanie moved to Hermanus, where she joined the Burgundy Restaurant. There, she was introduced to the wines of the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, and varietals like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay became a new source of inspiration. Concepts like terroir, prevailing sea breezes, and the surrounding mountain slopes made a deep and lasting impression.

Over time, Melanie joined several start-ups and learned from some of the industry’s best food and wine mentors. Her journey included time at Willowbrook Lodge – a small upscale restaurant with an award-winning wine list – and Erinvale Hotel, where she worked as sous chef in the kitchen of a dynamic and creative head chef.

In 2002, Melanie teamed up with the late Tony Taberer and his wife, Lindy, to open a restaurant on the beautiful Avontuur Estate. With her business partner, Zunia Boucher-Myers, she started the venture with only a few tables, a small kitchen, and a modest loan from her mother. Soon, food and wine became central to Melanie’s life, connecting her with friends, guests, and a growing community.

“The business flourished. Upgrades followed, new vineyards were planted and blessed, and 23 years later, we’re still going strong,” Melanie says. Zunia has since moved on to become a chef at a private reserve in Uganda, while Melanie has been preparing the business for its next chapter, passing it on to her two sons, Luc and James, as it grows into a true family enterprise.

“With so much change underway, I’ve found renewed space for creativity, and I feel genuinely privileged to collaborate with my family as we look to the future,” she says.

Why is it important for you to have a solid understanding of wine?

Working on a wine farm, food and wine are inseparable. To present a truly great meal in this setting, creating a harmonious balance between the food’s flavours and the wine’s character is essential. The more knowledge you have, the greater your creative freedom. I believe creativity is key when pairing food and wine. With a discerning customer base, it becomes even more important to have a solid understanding of wine so that our pairings are thoughtful, intelligent, imaginative, and inspiring.

How has learning about wine influenced the way you approach flavours and creativity in your kitchen?

Wine offers a kind of directed creativity, an opportunity to enhance the flavours of our food, and vice versa. It’s especially important to me to cook with our own wines, as their unique characteristics allow us to create dishes that are truly rooted in their origin. A deep understanding of a wine enables you to craft food with specific flavours in mind. The type of wine, and even the terroir it comes from, can help you achieve the exact flavour profile you’re aiming for.

What wine and one food pairing would you suggest WineLand readers try in June?

We’ve been preparing our menu for the winter months, and one dish I’ve especially enjoyed experimenting with is a beef sirloin paired with a chilli, maple syrup, and bourbon glaze. It’s been a fascinating challenge to find the right wine pairing – one that complements the sirloin’s richness, the maple’s sweetness, and the bourbon’s gentle smokiness. My wine of choice for this dish is a Cabernet Sauvignon, particularly one from the Helderberg area of the Cape Winelands. The structure and depth of these wines enhance the dish’s complexity beautifully, though I wouldn’t necessarily call it a perfect pairing.

What makes a pairing work?

The idea of what makes a good pairing is fundamentally subjective. Wine pairings are crafted as broad suggestions, guidelines that many people will enjoy, but aren’t universally suited to everyone’s tastes. I encourage experimenting with unexpected pairings. You never know what might surprise you. Don’t shy away from something simply because it’s unconventional. Even if the result isn’t to your liking, there’s joy in the discovery process. Over time, you begin to understand your palate and preferences. Try other people’s suggestions, explore your own combinations, and eventually, you’ll discover the perfect pairings for you.

What does your relationship with the winemaker at Avontuur look like? Do you collaborate on pairings or specific concepts together?

Our new winemaker at Avontuur is Dominique Modena, and she’s already making a remarkable impact. Dominique has taken the lead on our latest wine releases, and I’ve been thoroughly impressed with the range she and her team have crafted. Although we’ve only been working with the new wines for just over a month, the plan is to bring Dominique into the conversation once we’ve finalised our food selections for the winter menu. I’m genuinely excited about the opportunity to collaborate with her and draw on her expertise to create standout pairings for the season.

I anticipate a long and fruitful partnership, and once the current wave of activity settles, I look forward to working with her more closely. Together, I believe we can develop a food and wine experience that is exceptional and truly unique to Avontuur.

Do you think your food has changed the way people experience or appreciate wine at Avontuur? How have you contributed to the wine journey?

Many of our guests have developed a genuine appreciation for Avontuur’s wines. We focus on creating honest, authentic food, and the wines have complemented that vision, supporting an atmosphere where people can truly relax and enjoy themselves.

I also think our customers play an essential role in shaping the experience on the farm. The wine team has been incredibly receptive to their feedback and has worked hard to craft wines that resonate with our clientele. This responsiveness and shared passion make the connection between our food, wine, and guests feel so natural and rewarding.

How do you see the future of wine tourism in South Africa, especially when it comes to food and wine experiences?

Wine tourism in South Africa has continued to grow from strength to strength. Every year, we welcome a steady stream of international visitors – many of whom return to see us each summer when they travel to South Africa. We’ve also noticed a rise in local tourism from other parts of the country, with guests who seem to truly embrace the Cape wine experience.

Our local clientele has been fundamental in encouraging this growth. Their ongoing support and enthusiasm have played a significant role in drawing attention to what we offer and inspiring others to visit. Looking ahead, I believe wine tourism in the Cape will continue to flourish, and South Africa is well on its way to becoming a must-visit destination for wine lovers around the world.

What’s the secret to being a great chef?

The secret to being a great chef lies in building a strong, supportive team around you. It’s important to enjoy teaching and to give your team the space to express themselves creatively and feel truly heard. Hard work is essential when needed, but it’s equally important to take the time to appreciate the slower moments.

At its core, I believe the journey is about striving for humility. A great chef is never defined by their skills alone, but by their team’s strength, growth, and unity.

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