Being an independent producer in South Africa is not without its challenges, as Alexandra McFarlane has come to realise. Having worked both locally and abroad for several years before setting out to do her own thing, the co-owner of McFarlane Wines is no novice when it comes to winemaking.
Alexandra McFarlane has a deep-rooted passion for viticulture and her journey has taken her from large-scale operations to the delicate balancing act of sourcing and managing vineyards as an independent producer.
Complexities of sourcing grapes
Unlike larger estates that own and control their own vineyards, McFarlane Wines relies on sourcing grapes from multiple sites across the Western Cape. While this approach allows for a broad spectrum of terroir-driven wines, it also presents a significant challenge: securing a consistent supply of quality grapes year after year.
“The biggest challenge when sourcing grapes as a boutique brand owner is having access to the same quality fruit every vintage,” Alexandra says. “Losing a vineyard can fundamentally alter a wine’s identity. For instance, the backbone of our Tuesday’s Child blend was pulled out in 2021/2022 and replacing it has been incredibly difficult. To mitigate this risk, we now aim to diversify our vineyard sources.”
Building relationships
The foundation of McFarlane Wines lies in strong, mutually beneficial relationships with grape growers, Alexandra says. The selection process is as much about compatibility as it is about viticultural excellence. “We work with growers who are good farmers and easy to collaborate with,” she says. “Where vineyards aren’t well maintained, we’ve had to make the tough decision to move on.”
Securing access to high-quality fruit, particularly from coveted Certified Old Vine blocks, is an uphill battle for small producers. Larger wineries, with their greater financial leverage, often outbid boutique brands. “To counter this, we’ve joined forces with another independent producer to collectively negotiate with growers,” she says. “By offering a higher price per ton than larger producers, we’ve gained access to exceptional blocks we’d otherwise have struggled to secure.”
Vineyard management and collaboration
Unlike estate wineries that can dictate every aspect of vineyard management, Alexandra must work within the parameters set by each grower. “The more fruit you take from a vineyard, the greater your ability to influence practices such as pruning, cover cropping and disease management,” she says. “Some growers are more open to experimentation, especially if they see the financial benefit.”
One of the strategies Alexandra employs is co-investment in vineyard trials. She has a background in natural vineyard management, having worked at Real IPM South Africa for more than four years, so knows a trick or two. “If we notice an issue, we discuss alternative solutions with the grower,” she says. “Instead of using a harsh chemical spray, for example, we might suggest introducing a natural predator and share the cost of implementation. Change must benefit both parties to be sustainable.”
Logistical challenges
Sourcing grapes from multiple regions adds another layer of complexity for independent producers: harvest coordination. Optimal picking decisions require constant monitoring of ripeness levels across various sites, often located hours apart. “If I had the answer to perfectly managing harvest logistics, I’d be rich,” Alexandra jokes. “Every year, I tell myself it will get easier, but the reality is that it’s an exhausting process. I spend a lot of time driving, inspecting vineyards, dropping off harvest crates and even towing grapes myself.” Collaboration with fellow boutique producers has helped ease some of these challenges. “By sharing a vineyard, we can split responsibilities, such as ripeness sampling, which helps us make more informed picking decisions.”
Transport and quality control
Once harvested, maintaining grape quality in transit is crucial. Unlike larger wineries with dedicated cold-chain logistics, boutique producers must find practical solutions. “We don’t have the budget for refrigerated transport, so the key is to reduce transit time,” Alexandra says. “Moving our production closer to the vineyards has made a huge difference. What used to be a two-hour drive is now just 40 minutes and ensures the grapes reach the cellar in optimal condition.”
Looking ahead, she hopes to invest in cold storage facilities to further enhance grape preservation. “Processing fruit ice-cold in the morning would be a gamechanger for quality,” she says.
Moving production facilities
Transitioning between production sites is a logistical nightmare, particularly when wines are at various stages of completion. When McFarlane Wines relocated from the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley to Stellenbosch, careful planning was essential.
“We moved all bottled wines in a 12-ton truck over four loads, ensuring everything was securely strapped and transported in stages,” Alexandra says. “The most stressful part was relocating barrels. Strapping 500-litre barrels onto a truck that had to navigate mountain passes was terrifying. We mitigated risks by racking wines into smaller 300-litre barrels and securing them in cradles for safe transport.”
Advice for aspiring winemakers
For young winemakers dreaming of launching their own label, Alexandra offers a dose of hard-earned wisdom: “Don’t be afraid to ask for help,” she says. “Many have done this before. But also, don’t underestimate what a massive undertaking it is. If you can start your brand while still earning a steady income, it gives you a financial cushion. The moment you go full time, the pressure is immense.”
Financial planning is critical. “Cash flow is one of the biggest challenges. You must fund everything upfront – grapes, production, packaging – all before you see a return. It’s a long game and success doesn’t happen overnight.”
The future of independent winemaking in South Africa
Alexandra is optimistic about the future of boutique winemaking in South Africa, particularly when it comes to how smaller producers can support the preservation of heritage vineyards. “If independent winemakers continue to pay better prices for premium fruit it will shift the industry dynamic,” she says. “We need to ensure that old vine Chenin and Pinotage remain in the ground, rather than being replaced by high-yielding but lower-quality plantings.”
Beyond grape selection, she emphasises the importance of site-specific plantings. “Finding the right vineyard in the right location is crucial,” she says. “We need to champion these great sites and ensure they’re farmed sustainably for future generations.”
McFarlane Wines exemplifies the challenges and triumphs of independent winemaking. From sourcing premium grapes and managing grower relationships to navigating harvest logistics and production transitions, Alexandra has carved out her place in the South African wine landscape. Her story is not just about making great wine, it’s about ensuring the survival and evolution of South Africa’s rich viticultural heritage.
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